FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Due to the size of stand up paddle boards, swing weight is a critical factor when it comes to performance. The lighter weight of Starboard’s Blue Carbon, improves reactivity and response by an incredible margin. The amazing fact is that they are stronger as well, with less chance of snapping them in the surf. The lighter weights also make it far easier to manage boards on land when carrying to the water or putting the board onto the car. See more on our Starboard Technologies.
A lot of work has already been done testing for the ultimate position of the fins. When you insert your fins, they should be with the curved side of the side fins to the outside and the center of the fin should line up with the middle of the fin box. Moving the fin forward will make the board looser with less drive and the opposite when moved back. See here how to position your Starboard fins.
Both options are supplied on many of the boards with some people having an affinity for Quads. In the Quad set up it’s usually the front fins being the large ones 4.7 and smaller fins 4.5 in the rear. The quad can make your board have better acceleration and speed, but to the detriment of smooth rail to rail transition. The default set up that the boards were designed around was the thruster fins that are supplied.
Starboard has had extremely few problems with de-lamination over the last 20 years of board building, thanks to the highest standards of material and manufacturing technology. However, in 2012 a valve was put in all boards due to popular demand and the result was that several riders forgot to put in their valve or they lost it. Thus, we are back to not having valves in boards, except for our Race range, where the plug is located just in front of the standing area. Watch how to install our Starboard race valve.
Compared to inferior quality boards, you can feel safe to leave your Starboard out in the sun without fear of popping the outer skin off of the foam (De-lamination). However, harmful UV rays will always affect the look of your board, so it is good to keep your board in the shade when not in use, and protect it from travel dings with a board bag.
Definitely. As soon as you notice you have a hole or crack thru the skin of your board you should exit the water immediately. The inner core of your board (EPS) absorbs water rapidly, which will increase the weight of your board. If you do happen to absorb water from a crack or ding, it is possible to drain it by leaving it in the sun for extended periods, but it will never get back to its original weight. Many new generation Starboard’s feature advanced fused cell core material for light weight and increased water resistance. Learn to properly fix your Starboard.
There are two types of “quick fix” repairs to get you back on the water quickly, Solar Resin, which is hardened when exposed to the sun and Ding Stick, which is a two-part epoxy putty. Both of these should be a temporary measure with a proper repair of fiberglass mat with epoxy resin used at a later date. NEVER use polyester resin to fix your epoxy Starboard, as the resin will eat away the foam. Learn to repair your Starboard composite board and your Inflatable board.
The aluminum insert in front of your Touring 14′ Fin box is there to fit an after market course adjuster (steering system). It basically fits a Directional Fin on a small shaft going through the insert and fitted to a light fiberglass rudder. This can be locked at any angle in order to adjust natural course if you are paddling side wind, allowing you to still paddle from both sides even if the wind is on one side. See Starboard Touring course adjuster and more FEATURES here.
Stiff and light .
- Dual Stringer on the deck for increased rigidity.
- Carbon Rails for extra support in the critical standing area.
- 6” Dropstitch with uni-directional connecting yarns increasing longitudinal stiffness.
- Half Layer PVC laminates reduces the weight significantly.
- Linear dropstitch
Strong and durable.
- Strong double layer PVC laminates for maximum strength on the deck and bottom.
- Visible double rail band with extra thick PVC Outer Rail Band for maximum protection.
- Biaxial dropstitch for strength and stiffness.
There is a little spring pin inside that locks itself in two positions:
Deflating position (air coming out freely) and inflating position (100% Airtight). To switch from inflating to deflating, simply push the pin and turn clockwise a 1/4 turn. The pin will lock itself in a down position and the air will come out freely. To switch from deflating to inflating, simply push the pin and turn a 1/4 counter-clockwise. The pin will lock itself in a up position and the air will not be able to come out unless you push the pin. Learn to inflate and deflate your Inflatable board.
The recommended pressure is 14- 18PSI, any higher you risk over inflating and damage. Depending on the size of your board it can take anywhere from 5-8 min. Learn to inflate your Inflatable board.
We only recommend water and a mild soap. Heavy detergents and solvents can damage your board. It is best to clean and dry your board, take out the fins, roll it up and put in the Zen bag or Magic Suitcase.
Do NOT over tighten the screws. Only tighten until the fins feel snug and secure in the box. See how to install Inflatable fins
If leaving the board inflated, it is best to remove from direct sunlight and deflate the board at least 10PSI.
Yes, you can use the supplied Inflatable repair kit. Or email us for more information at firstname.lastname@example.org. Learn how to repair your Inflatable inflatable board.